Fabàtable meets Yummy Veggie Club @ Agora Café Berlin Neuköln on the 28th of May

flyer Agora final

Yummy Veggie Club and Fabàtable are hosting a special evening, bringing together our passions for vegetarian food and desserts.

You will find a half/half menu, with an amuse-bouche, 2 savories and 2 desserts:

Coleslaw, peanuts & wasabi
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Leek-soy-ginger fresh ravioli, delicate veggie broth & crunchy vegetables
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Baba au rum asian style, yuzu-lemon grass-rum sirup & citrus cream
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Red fruits soup, caramelized almonds, fresh fruits & coriander granité

The price for the menu is 30 EUR (excluding drinks). We will serve selected wines from the Burgundy and Beaujolais regions selected by Nicolas Drouhin from Déjà Bu.

Seats are limited to 30 people, and they’ll be given out on a first come, first serve basis.
If you wish to partake, send us an email to fab@fabatable.com until the 20th of May. We will let you know if you are in and send you the payment details, asking you kindly to pay in advance by bank transfer.

Thank you for your support!

See you there.
Anne&Fabienne

Fabàtable meets Yummy Veggie Club @ Agora Café Berlin Neuköln on the 28th of May

Paris 9th – Dinner at Ito Chan, Japanese restaurant

Wandering the streets in Paris is one of my favorite passtimes. Walking around without goal and discovering places, meeting people.
We discovered the little japanese restaurant Ito Chan, in the Saint-George area down Pigalle.
We loved the interior, the small size of the place and the reduced menu which is very affordable. There are a few options, the plate with either meat/fish/vegetarian and 3 sides for 12€ or a delicious Ramen soup also with toppings for 11€.

The service is very friendly and Chef Take brings out the food himself, which he prepares in his tiny kitchen. The food, the dedication and the enthusiasm of Take and his team made me want to write about them.

Ito Chan exists since December 2014. After a great year Take and his partner bought the shop next door and turned it into a Japanese Tapas bar, only open in the evening.
Take was born in Paris from a Japanese mother and a mixed Asian father. His parents have a restaurant in the 9th where Take used to work. This was a great training since he is Chef of his place at only 27 and creates the recipes of the Tapas bar Ito Izakaya.

We had a wonderful time and I’ll make sure to pop in again on my next trip.

This is part of a series I am working on – portraits of people who move me through their initiative, their creativity and craftsmanship. I’d like to support their work by presenting some of them.

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Ito Chan
2, Rue Pierre Fontaine
75009 Paris
http://www.itoeats.fr/#!itochan/c161c
No reservation

Paris 9th – Dinner at Ito Chan, Japanese restaurant

In Berlin, again….


Yes, I know, I have not been writing for a very long time….

I spent the last year working at Le Môle in Marseille, which was a great experience but also a tough one. It was my first time working in the gastronomy business in France. The kitchen team is young, nice and very proficient.

But even though Marseille was amazing, gorgeous weather, friendly people, mind blowing landscape, the best aperos ever…..I decided to come back to Berlin for a while.

I first worked in a pastry shop, which didn’t work out as I had hoped, but I actually found a better place, a compromise between kitchen and social life: the Catering business at Kofler Company. It is a very different way of working than à la carte, first because of the quantities you have to produce for, the desserts have to hold for a few hours, have to be easy to plate and produceable for hundreds, thousands of guests. Then there is the organisation, the logistic etc…..a great opportunity to learn. And personally, that’s what the job is also all about.

In Berlin, again….

Les Restos du Coeur at Le Mole Passédat, Marseille

Le Mole Passédat hosted the charity event Les Restos du Coeur a couple of sundays ago. Chefs Passédat, Troisgros, Portos and Charial and their teams cooked for the event.
We assisted the Valrhona team to plate the desserts. It was a great opportunity to look at other Chefs working and try some very fine food. What a great evening!

For the ones who are not familiar with the MUCEM, the Museum of European and Mediterranean Civilisations, openend its doors last year for the Cultural Year as Marseille was elected one of the capital of Culture. The MUCEM hosts also the restaurants La Table, La Cuisine and the Cafe Saint Jean.

I joined the pastry team last January. We produce pastries and desserts for the whole place, which means a lot of work, which means I learn a lot.  I also do the service for the restaurant and the lunch buffet. The kitchen team, led by Chef Moreno, is young and very professional. Working in France is proving to be a great learning experience from the pace and quality of work point of view, but also it is interesting and enriching to see my home country after so many years spent abroad!!

I had the chance to photograph the evening, backstage……

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The three Chefs: Chefs Passédat, Moreno (Le Môle) and Maillet (Le Petit Nice)

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kitchenfoodChefs Portos, Troisgros and Passédat waiting to send the food at the pass.

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Gallery

La Nuit Magazine launch at the WAAW bar, Marseille

La Nuit Magazine launched their new website last wednesday. The party and presentation took place yesterday at the WAAW bar in Cours Julien. La Nuit Magazine is an online platform for all news and events regarding the marseille night life. As it was said in the presentation of the team, they are a young team and want to move marseille. That project deserves to be supported!

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La Nuit Magazine launch at the WAAW bar, Marseille

Favorite desserts from the WA

Before I left, Chef Pelloie was working on new desserts for the restaurant. It was a real pleasure taking part in the creation process. I got to try a lot of the recipes. The pistachio soufflé especially……there is just so much one can eat, even for the job!!

I love the plating, the colors and tastes combination. Preparing theses desserts was simply great and inspiring!


White Rhum granité, rhubarb, pan-roasted pears with rosmary


Roasted peaches with verbene, rose water-peach ice cream, meringues


Apples tandoori, red fruits, sesame parfait, blond raisins and crumble


Caramelised nuts, Marc Gewürtztraminer iced cream, chocolate sorbet and ice cream


Omelette Norvegienne with Grand-Marnier flambée, raspberry-mango/passion fruit coulis, dragon fruits
in sirup and colonel sorbet


Chocolate tartlet, glazed with a chocolate water, caramelised nuts, chocolate sorbet and vanilla ice cream
in orange white rhum sauce, chocolate meringues


Napoléon, red wine parmesan suc, 3 sorbets: redcurrant, raspberry and apricot, raspberry coulis


Pistachio soufflé, meringue and raspberry parfait, peach-rose water bavaroise, in vanilla sirup infused
dragon fruit, aloe vera and melon

I’ve decided to go back to restaurant business after trying out a smaller and nice structure at “Minoofi”.
I’ll be starting at the Môle Passédat at the Mucem next week. For me, a larger structure allows to work on many different styles of pastries, from café pastry to dessert on the plate. I think it is a very good way to learn a lot, like at the Waldorf Astoria.

I am very fortunate and grateful for the opportunities I have here.

Favorite desserts from the WA

Changes……..from Berlin to Marseille

I know, I have not been very effective at writing since last time…..But I have good reasons for that! It’s been a very good year, and I can only hope that it carries on….So many things have been happening. In 1 word: We left Berlin to move to Marseille 2 months ago!

I had been looking for a new job in France. Paris, Marseille, Bordeaux, Valence..After sending a large number of applications, I ended up at le Petit Nice, a 3* restaurant and institution in Marseille. It didn’t quite go as I expected, especially after working at the Waldorf Astoria with Chef Pelloie, it was kind of a cultural choc. So I decided to stop.
But we fell in love with Marseille and tried to stay. Which we are now. These were intense, stressful months but hopefully worth it.

That’s how it all started: after spending some time back in Berlin following the pastry school Graduation, I delivered “Mogg&Melzer” where my friend Joey Passarella prepares Berlin’s  best pastrami sandwich. I delivered lemon meringue tarts and chocolate truffle cakes. We also took part in the Art Fair abc. That was crazy and a lot of fun, but also made me do calculations and food costs which is a good exercise.
Then I applied at the Waldorf Astoria in Berlin which was about to open. My interview was conducted by the French Pastry Chef Nicolas Pelloie, who has been working for Pierre Gagnaire for over 10 years. It was important for me to work with a French Chef to carry on applying what I had learned at school. And it worked out!
It was very lucky, because this was my first experience in the real world after school, in a 5* Hotel and a starred Chef’s Kitchen. You usually need a minimum of one year experience. Since I was super motivated and my age was no problem, as it is in many places, mainly in Paris, let’s be honest…..Nicolas gave me my chance.
I started in October 2012. It was an exciting experience to join this team, and the Pierre Gagnaire’s team for the gastronomic restaurant “Les Solistes“.

Even though the hotellerie business was not my thing at first, I soon realized that you can learn a lot in a short period of time there, given that you do interesting work are not only there to peel apples. But you should know what you want and always ask to be shown and do new things. You can learn every day.
We produced the pastries for the cake shop, the afternoon teas, for the banquets and made the mise en place for the fine dining restaurant. It was a very busy year. Do not count the hours. For a few months I barely slept nor had any rhythm at all. But the team was fantastic and made the hard times turn into fun days and nights.

I was very lucky to work with Chef Nicolas who taught me a LOT, who was my coach for a year, shared his passion and his great jokes…….MERCI!!
The first experience after school is very important as it should not put you off the business. I’m sure some expected something else than what it actually is. But I must say, my girls from our little group at school are all very successful and love what they do.

I’d like to share some of the great stuff we’ve made over the year at the restaurant, with Chef’s agreement…..I’ll put some more photos in a coming post. But for now…….


Our petits fours: dulcey crèmeux tartlet, rose marshmallow, lemon cream in opaline, chocolate martha with redcurrant jelly and apple pâte de fruit.


Chocolate soufflé with pistachio parfait, blackcurrant sorbet, chocolate sauce, tartlet with caramelia whipped cream.


Tandoori apple tartlet and pink opaline.


Some of my favorite desserts. The wild strawberries Mille-Feuille and the chocolate soup, yogurt mousseline, pear sorbet and roasted almonds.

Changes……..from Berlin to Marseille

A new beginning

Who said that 40’s are the new 30’s? well it is fantastic that one can change her/his life and start something new.

I chose to follow my passion and threw myself into French pastry. Even though it was not a given considering that I’m almost 40. You would usually start with 15 or so as an apprentice while going to school, then take the CAP exam, which is the basic exam you need in order to carry on.
There are not many schools in France which offer trainings for people who want to change career. Only two were on my list: Ferrandi in Paris and the ENSP in Yssingeaux. Both providing a more or less 6 months pastry training.
The interviews were completely different, where in Paris you get the attitude that goes together with the capital, the provincial friendliness and availability of the staff convinced me. There also were 100 more hours of teaching at the ENSP and the financial issues raised by living in Paris was not an option for me!

I have been very lucky to be accepted at the ENSP. Although I first thought: “Oh my god, how am I going to survive in the middle of the Auvergne, deep in the country side, on my own”. Well actually I had a wonderful time. The inhabitants of the beautiful Auvergne are extremely nice, helpful and welcoming.
Regarding the school, well, as always some things could get better, but as a whole I’m glad I studied there.
You have probably all been in a situation in which you speculate on things, how the people are gonna be like, how your life there is going to be like…..the  good thing about it is when it turns out completely different and to the best.

I met great people, our group at school was “top”.
Our teacher was Xavier Brun. Xavier (when he was there!) was available when you needed him, patient, fun to work with and he knows his craft; there were times when other personalities of the school would come and pay us a visit like “Manu”, who checked out or work, showed us his techniques and simply enjoyed our company; Damien gave us tips on viennoiseries, accepted my friend Marion and me in his class for a day and showed us how to make perfect brioches. It helped me make the best brioches I had ever made for the exam; the assistants, who came to give us more tips, also regarding the job search. In a word there was a wonderful team and they made it even easier to get up in the early morning with -18°c.

I did my internship at Bruno Montcoudiol‘s in Monistrol, who is MOF and World Champion of Pastry. Even though it only lasted a month, I had a good introduction to how a professional works. He is a great teacher and always there if you need help. His team is small, which was good for me, helpful, patient and fun to work with.

Then came the serious time to prepare for the exam including 7 hours of practice and 3 hours of theory. It’s done and I am proud to say that I passed with a very good mark!

After the Exams were over, I had the chance to take part in the recruitment day for the Four Seasons Hotels. They came to the school to introduce a management program and were looking for candidates. We were 11 selected by the school. The day was organised with 2 interviews: one with the Human Resources and the second with a Pastry Chef (here Chef Pannier from the Hampshire Hotel). Then we made a dessert and presented it under the supervision of Chef Lucien Gautier from the George V in Paris.
This was a very good opportunity to see how a recruitment process works in the Luxury Hotel business, to deal with the stress of showing what you can do within a short time, but most importantly, it showed me just how much I want to work in this field.
I worked in the restaurant business for a long time. But you should decide what you’d rather work as: a Pastry Chef or one day own your boutique.

I didn’t plan on coming back to Berlin, I thought I would stay in France and carry on learning from French Chefs in a boutique or travel abroad with a new job.
But there it is, it’s funny how life goes. I’m going to work in a Luxury Hotel here in Berlin with a French Pastry Chef.
My first job as a pastry commis! I couldn’t be happier and am very much looking forward to it.

But for now, I’m baking cakes to help out my friend Joey who works at Mogg&Melzer, a great place in Mitte.

So there you go, for the ones who are wondering about changing careers but do not dare for whatever reasons to take the step, I can only say, I’m happy I took this decision.

 

A new beginning

Modern entremets and a vanilla raspberries Charlotte…

Here are some of the latest delicacies we made in the last few months. I will add more photos and recipes in the coming posts.

The exam CAP is 2 months away and some of us are already looking for work. This is an exciting but also scary time, for we know it is not easy to set foot in a Pâtisserie.

I am doing my internship in a Pâtisserie in the area. We’re lucky to have a MOF (best craftsman of France) 20 kms away, Bruno Montcoudiol. I applied there before even leaving Berlin, I love his work, his cakes are deliciously fine and gorgeous. I am lucky I can work in his team, it’s friendly, it’s clean (not like some stories I hear from some of my girl friends) and well organised.
I broke my lens last week, but hopefully I’ll get to take some photos later this month.

For now…..
some pictures of these cakes and, because the Charlotte is easier to make at home and requires less material, I will give you its recipe below.

These are layers of Madeleine lime cake with a thin layer of blackcurrants puree and lemon custard.

An almond croquant base, topped with a dacquoise cake, a Morello cherries coulis and an almond cream.

Making a Charlotte:

This is the home made charlotte from scratch: lady fingers, vanilla cream, a raspberries crèmeux. If you don’t want to make it complicated, you can simply make the vanilla cream and place fruits in the middle. Also, you can buy your lady fingers at the supermarket, but it will not look as spectacular nor taste as good, I think…But, it saves you time and is also delicious. If you go for the supermarket version, you could soak your lady fingers in a rum-sugar cane syrup (that’s what my parents do).
You also may want to separate the “cartridge” lady fingers to the ring lady fingers, your oven will probably be too small to have everything on one baking sheet.

Lady fingers:

150g Egg whites
150g Sugar
100g Egg yolks
150g Flour (sifted)
2 baking rings, 18cm and 16 cm wide (16cm for the raspberries crèmeux)
Baking sheet on the edge of the 18cm baking ring

In the Kitchen Aid, whisk the egg whites until foamy. Add the sugar little by little until stiff and you can make pikes. Pour in the egg yolks, put on max. speed 2 seconds and then stop. Use a spatula to gently mix the mixture, then fold in the flour. Do not overdo it otherwise the mixture will “fall”. If that’s the case, you can start again. The texture should be firm and fluffy.

Make a cartridge: on a baking sheet, use a ruler to draw 2 horizontal lines, 6 cm apart and 2 circles using the 18cm ring. Transfer mixture to pastry bag and pipe out onto prepared baking sheet leaving 1-2 mm apart. (Place another baking sheet on top to see thru the first one and pipe your lady fingers).
Powder icing sugar once, then wait 1 min, and a second time.

Bake: 8-10min – 180°C

Raspberries crèmeux

100g Raspberry Puree/Pulp (frozen)
43g Egg yolks
Half an egg
25g Sugar
1,5g Gelatine soaked in water
37g Butter

In a sauce pan melt the pulp till it simmers.
Egg yolks, half the egg and sugar in a bowl: whisk until creamy.
Pour half the liquid pulp onto the egg/sugar mixture, mix well and pour that in to the sauce pan. Bring it to a boil (85°C).
Put aside in a bowl. Press the gelatin in your hands to get rid of the water and add to the mixture.
Put aside and let cool to 35°C.
Make a creamy butter weather in the micron wave, slightly melt and then whisk, or in a water bath, same procedure. Add the butter to the mixture.
Pour into a 16cm baking ring and place in the freezer.

Vanilla Cream

125g Liquid cream (35% fat)
125g Milk
Vanilla powder (according to your taste)
60g Egg yolks
50g Sugar
6g Gelatine soaked in water
200g Liquid cream (35% fat) in a bowl in the fridge

In a sauce pan bring to a boil: the cream, milk and vanilla.
In the meantime, whisk the egg yolks with the sugar until fluffy and white.
Pour half the milk/cream on the eggs/sugar, mix well. Pour it in the sauce pan with the rest of the cream. Make the mixture thicken on low heat so that the eggs do not cook. If they do, strain.
Set aside in a bowl and add the gelatine after pressing out the water.
Let cool until cold (25°C). You can use ice cubes in a bowl and place underneath to cool faster. If it cools too long, the gelatine will take and it will be difficult to mix the whipped cream.
Once cooled whisk the cream until it gets thicker but not too thick (fromage blanc texture).
Add to the vanilla cream step by step.

Mount the Charlotte

In the 18cm ring, place baking paper or Rhodoid plastic film on the edges so that the lady fingers don’t stick. Cut the most ugly part of the biscuits (top or bottom) so that one side is even. Place them carefully in the ring and cut the extremities if needed so that it fits.
Take out the raspberries crèmeux.

Place the bottom lady fingers circle in.
Then vanilla cream / place the raspberries crèmeux or fresh fruits/ vanilla cream / lady fingers circle / vanilla cream. Place in the fridge or freezer. Decorate before serving and enjoy!!

PS: If in the freezer, make sure you take it out and place in the fridge 2 hours before serving. You can make it the day before hosting your dinner.

Modern entremets and a vanilla raspberries Charlotte…